SoliloQ(&A)uy

Since getting back I’ve had friends, family, and strangers ask heaps about the trip. But after spending so much time with myself, I’ve been eager to fill my head with the lives of others and have conversations rather than monologues. Blogs, however, are perfect for monologues.

So it feels like the right place to bring together the questions I’ve got most often and share their answers. What was the best part of the trip? How did you do it? Bikes? Navigation? Food? How’d it compare to my expectations? What now, or next?

But the best part? It’s hard to pick just one thing! The Grand Tetons were astoundingly beautiful, with blue lakes, bright skies, and snowcapped peaks. Some of the people I met were incredible; they changed my perspective; showed deep kindness and passion for life; they made this trip possible. Reaching Hoosier pass and realising I could actually finish the trail was a brilliant feeling. Getting to 11500ft, my lips and hands tingling from the thin air, a pair of guys clapping and cheering as I tried to sprint to the top, coasting down the other side through snowy pine trees with an overwhelming sense of capability and joy. Each of these memories alone was great, but I think, the more time passes, the more I’ll feel that there is no “best” thing, but a number of experiences that will continue to complement and help me through the challenges that will come my way.

The how though. Some folks are practically minded, and curious about the mechanics of crossing America alone - the bike, fuelling, personal safety, navigation, accommodation.

The bike made it with no catastrophes! A fresh chain as I left Virginia, a new gear cable at Togowotee Pass, and fresh tires in Pueblo + far fewer punctures than expected (huge yay for tubeless tyres).

Food-wise, there’s some details here. Broadly, I kept it cheap, vegan, and heavy on the peanut butter. It meant daily shops where possible for frozen or fresh fruit, but where that wasn’t feasible, I carried 2 - 3 days’ worth of breakfast, lunch, and dinner (100% not necessary for omnivores).

Personal safety was a priority when planning this trip as a woman, travelling solo, in a country where women’s rights are somewhat receding. I had a Garmin InReach Mini clipped to my bike during the day, and with me when I slept. This shared my location regularly to a site my friends and family could access. After a dicey night in a city park, I made sure to set my tent up as late into the evening as possible (in case I had to move / run away) and would quickly engage strangers in positive chat.

I used a mix of Komoot, the Amercian Cycling Association app, and Garmin to get around. The app had suggested accomodation (like church-based hostels and camp spots), and helped me plan 2 - 5 days ahead at a time through Komoot. I’d then have these saved in a block on my Garmin so I didn’t have to rely on phone signal for directions.

Accomodation! I camped ~3/4 of the time, usually in formal campgrounds, sometimes wildcamping. Otherwise I stayed with WarmShowers hosts (like free Airbnb for cyclist), in hostels / churches, and a couple of times in motels. This was ultimately to keep me and my clothes at a healthy level of clean.

I expected this trip to be an opportunity to reflect and grow, while seeing rural America, a sort of perpetual daydream against a backdrop of nature and cycling. Instead, I was largely focused on the challenges of each day (both mental and physical) and absorbed by dynamic surroundings. Moments of reflection would come, but be quickly over taken by the need to eat or the rush of a river. I didn’t anticipate pro-life placards and confederate flags, nor being welcomed into homes or having entire food shops paid for by strangers. The extreme views that littered highways and gardens vanished in person-to-person interactions (almost vanished.. having guns placed in my hands, and being given a hunting knife to protect myself was pretty hard to ignore).

But what now? The fundraising isn’t done! My JustGiving page is still open (go donate if you haven’t yet!), and I’ve got a couple of interviews lined up for September to talk about the incredible work of Rape Crisis and completing the TransAm solo. In terms of cycling, I’m looking at North Cape 4000, a 4200km race from Italy to the Arctic Circle - sign ups open in December! More immediately, I’m spending the summer catching up on missed time with friends and family before moving to Swansea to start medical school. At the advice of friends, acquaintances, and strangers, I’m toying with the idea of a book - but this blog might act as a sort of draft in the meantime.