Day 1 + 2
Hello! Definitely overdue an update!
What’s happened:
Got everything ready! Again! Cycled Yorktown to Richmond(ish), and Richmond(ish) to Charlottesville(ish) - roughly 300k total.
But that’s the logistics, not the people, places, mishaps, and highlights of the last few days - the interesting stuff.
I’m writing this in Linda’s kitchen, her little dog perched atop her bed peaking through the kitchen door and her cat lazing on the chair opposite me. While she’s off making politics happen in Virginia, I’m sat with a dessert of garden-grown strawberries and Walmarts cheapest peanut butter thinking about how impressive this 70 year old woman is, despite the challenges life has thrown at her. Before she left for her meeting she emphasised the people I’ll meet during my trip; the brilliance that comes from sharing stories and dipping into diverse life’s, just momentarily.
Already, in just two days, I’ve been accosted by the generosity of everyone I’ve crossed paths with. Everyone feels like an overstatement, but genuinely everyone. The group of churchwomen who curiously interrogated me and shared their safe space with me, the bike mechanics who offered advice and a T-shirt while they checked my bike over one more time, the Walmart employees who held onto my shopping while I sprinted to my bike to get my card, the WarmShowers hosts who share their home and life stories with me. Even the strangers who pull up while I chug water at the side of the road to ask where I’m off too (and wish me vast amounts of luck as I reply “Portland, Oregon”). All these people have merrily offered support in some way, and that’s so damn cool.
[this gets political so skip if you don’t vibe with that.. but! here’s some nice highlights that don’t touch on that side of things! I’ve seen so many eagles! Some frogs and lizards too! I was in my first dog chase today - managed to out pace 2 dogs that were at about 8 inches tall. I’ve finished my first kilo of peanut butter. A dog chewed my glasses, so I’m low-key blind for a while. I got new cycling shoes since I left mine in England, but they’re uncomfy so I have more blisters on my toes. Despite this! I’m feeling good, happy ache at the end of the day that goes away with a sleep, mileage feels okay, and I’m still not great at a) asking people to donate and b) dealing with the look on peoples faces with I say Rape Crisis. And tips would be great! Now go skip to the last paragraph of you want to miss the politics chat]
Despite this though, I’m cycling past endless political signs - all begging for votes and coloured in patriotic pallets. Or houses adorned with some sort of American memorabilia. Then there’s the church boards, some are witty and supportive, others are damning. However, all are there to persuade, somewhat aggressively. The America I see on my bike is so different from the one I meet when I stop.
And then I remember who I am. A young white woman, who speaks English in an entertaining accident, doing something for charity. This doesn’t mean the aggression I observe while I cycle is superficial, instead it’s hidden from me; obstructed by swaths of privilege. I get to be an alien who’s curiosity in politics is met with honesty rather than conflict (altho I have been careful to not too freely share my views). In these moments of honesty I’ve heard outrageous racism, sexist belief systems, and emotionality dressed up as logic.
I didn’t consider this while I was preparing for this trip. I expected to be largely on my own, bump into some people who like bikes too, and to spend hours stuck in my head about life at home - I was hoping for some sort of therapeutic potential in combo with fitness. Instead the contrast of beautiful landscapes and generous people. with physical pain and public hostility has filled my time while cycling.
Over the next few days, as I reach the mountains and settle into a groove of camping and cycling, I hope some of the expected therapeutic benefit of this trip can fall into place. Or at the very least, I find places where people match the environment they’ve built around themselves; outward kindness to everyone, not just people who look like me.
Last paragraph: we’ve done 1/30th of the trip! Only got to do this 29 more times - and I think that’s achievable! Despite the blistering sun and toes I’ve felt pretty chipper. The support from everyone online, the playlists you’ve made and added to, and folks chatting to me despite the hectic time zones has been brilliant. Big time appreciate all the smiles you’ve given me over the last few days. And as I now realise it’s only been two days, I’m less certain how achievable this will be.
